Vejigantes Restaurant-Villa Victoria South End

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REVIEW: VEJIGANTES

Posted on August 27, 2012 by KATHRIN HAVRILLA Email

Do not be alarmed by the clown mask.

Vejigantes is the latest foray into the restaurant world for Hector and Nivia Piña, owners of the popular Dominican spot Merengue in Roxbury. Located in Villa Victoria, a close-knit, largely Puerto Rican community in the South End that found its roots in the 1960s when a group of homegrown activists rebelled against the city’s plans to tear down their neighborhood,

Vejigantes takes on authentic Puerto Rican cuisine that layers African, Spanish, and Caribbean influences.

Named for a beloved clown-like character that plays an important (and mildly terrifying) role in many Puerto Rican festivals, Vejigantes is adorned with eponymous masks—wildly colored and festooned with horns, grinning agape as diners calmly crunch cassava fries. One wall displays a lively art installation of backlit glass created for the restaurant by a Puerto Rican artist, and on another an architect faithfully recreated the vibrant arched doorways of Old San Juan.

Hector and Nivia spent quite a bit of time hoofing it around Puerto Rico, indulging in what was no doubt some very delicious research for the menu. To capture the authenticity of the cuisine, they hired Puerto Rico-born-and-bred chef Randy Muñiz, who began cooking at age 13 when his sister broke his mother’s toe (accidentally, we assume) and someone had to step up and learn how to feed the family.
The fare is full of Puerto Rican classics, like the bacalaitos fritos (salt cod fritters, $4), which are served thin (unlike the fishcakes you might be used to) and bathed in a slightly oily batter, almost like funnel cake. The pastellillos (empanadas, $4-$5) come filled with chicken, beef, or crab. They have a great savory flavor, if a bit dry, and might have benefitted from a side sauce.

A house favorite is the bistec encebollado (thin cut marinated steak topped with onions, $12), which offers an unexpected but pleasant vinegary kick with a texture that’s a little tough.

Another classic is the mofongo, much like a Mexican tamale made with mashed plantains instead of cornmeal, and stuffed with pork or chicken ($8-$9). There are also several paellas for single servings or to share, but be advised that even the portion for one was enough strain your shirt buttons considerably.
Desserts encompass a few familiar choices like flan and tres leches cake (which we were desperately sad to discover they were out of on our visit), along with some more unique pastries filled with guava paste and light cheeses.
As for cocktails, the Vejigantes signature is the Coquitini ($10), a creamy coconut milk concoction with a hint of nutmeg.

It’s great for before or after dinner, but its rich flavor can compete with your meal.

They also have a roster of solid mojitos with add-ins like passion fruit, mango, and guava ($9), as well as various fruity daiquiris ($4-$8) in both alcoholic and non-alcoholic form in case you have any teetotalers with you (and really, who invited that guy anyway?).
As it opened not too long ago, Vejigantes doesn’t have much of an after-work crowd yet, but at about 7 p.m., the floodgates opened and what seemed like most of Villa Victoria came streaming in for dinner amid much bear-hugging, cheek-kissing, and rapid-fire well-wishes in both Spanish and English.
And this is what’s at the heart of what Hector and Nivia Piña intended Vejigantes to be—

a symbol of Puerto Rican traditions in the heart of the cohesive Villa Victoria community, celebrating good food, friends, and family.

VEJIGANTES
57 WEST DEDHAM ST.
SOUTH END
BOSTON
MON-WED 10AM-10PM
THU-SAT 11AM-1AM
SUN 11AM-10PM
@VEJIGANTEREST
VEJIGANTESRESTAURANT.COM"
- http://digboston.com/taste/2012/08/review-vejigantes/#more-191953